Brod Romy Dorotan's Cinderella
By Brod Bayani S. Aguirre '63

It is a different kind of fairy tale. Brod Romy Dorotan's Cendrillon (French for Cinderella) is an Asian Grill & Merienda Bar which acknowledged by critics (suchthe New York Magazine) as "one of the best Pan-Asian restaurants in New York City." Moreover, the New York Times described it as "a fashionable SoHo bistro, where traditional Filipino fare is masterfully tweaked; where, with a wink and touch of culinary genius, the bibingka becomes a rich souffle of gouda and feta instead of the traditional water-buffalo cheese, and where the paella is a steaming cornucopia of shrimp, long beans and indigo-colored rice ..." (S. Sengupta, New York Times, April 1998)

Brod Romy Dorotan belongs to Batch '68. He hails from Irosin, Sorsogon and has a BS Business Economics from the University of the Philippines. More than twenty years ago, he went to the US to pursue post-graduate studies. Instead, he has now become, in the words of a New York critic, one of the "unsung fine chefs of New York." But the road had not been easy. Brod Romy did a variety of odd jobs -- including that of a dishwasher. He eventually became a cook before he and his wife, Amy Camara-Besa, who had resigned from a secure financial management job, decided to pool their resources and combine their culinary talents to establish Cendrillon in August 1995.

A sample of Brod Romy's mouth-watering spread for dinner can be a course consisting of Manila clams with blackbeans, leeks & shitake mushrooms(appetizer); spareribs with mashed taro & sweet potatoes marinated, spice-rubbed and cooked in Chinese smokehouse (main course); and black rice paella with crab, shrimp & Manila clams (rice). And for dessert, try the exquisite chocolate mangosteen ice cream with butterscotch & date brownie.

On Saturdays and Sundays, do not miss the Brunch (11am-4pm).. This is an Asian style breakfast & merienda featuring tocino (achuete-cured pork), pancit luglug, suman (steamed sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves), halo-halo and bibingka (Philippine rice pancakes).

Cendrillon is the only Filipino restaurant listed in the prestigious ZAGAT Survey of New York City Restaurants, otherwise known as the bible for fine dining in the city The 2002 edition of the ZAGAT described Brod Romy’s fare as “Challenging but delicious” cuisine coming out of the SoHo kitchen of this “worldly” Filipino-Pan-Asian with a vaguely “French colonial” air. Given the “warm hospitality”, this “serene” spot is a “great de-stresser.”

Truly, the place is a haven for palate-challenging fusion fare with Filipino and Pacific-Rim accents. The gently stylish space features walls of vintage brick hung with intriguing artwork. Inlaid wooden tables add a casual charm and votive candles cast a golden glow throughout. The semi-open kitchen produces consistent, complex and always imaginative cooking.

Brod Romy personally selects the ingredients and often goes to nearby Chinatown to get the freshest produce. One can see him whipping up one dish after another, with great passion, while supervising four chefs at the same time. Together with his wife Amy, they go around the tables to greet guests and to ensure that everybody is having a good time. Some of the celebrities who have savoured Brod Romy's specials include Mel Gibson, Christina Ricci and Brooke Shields. If you are not a celebrity but introduce yourself as an Alphan (provided, of course, that you are able to do so convincingly), then you are in for a round of your favourite drink with Brod Romy, on the house!

Cendrillon also hosts and promotes a variety of events such as in-house wine and beer tasting to exhibitions of local Filipino artists and other cultural events. Filipino and South East Asian cookbooks, some not available elsewhere in the United States, special Cendrillon T-shirts and playing cards, are for sale.. Homemade preserves and Achara are also available..

Cendrillon is located at the fashionable SoHo area with the following address:
45 Mercer St. (Between Broome & Grand Sts.) New York, NY 10013. Tel (212) 343-9012 and Fax (212) 343-9670. Visit its website http://www.cendrillon.com or send your email to acbesa@prodigy.net. Better still, visit Brod Romy Dorotan, whenever you are in New York and have a real nice day.

For Valentine's Day, Brod Romy lined up several treats including his amuse bouche of sweet potato pizza. The five-course menu starts with a complimentary glass of champagne to pair off with Quilcene oysters and tuna kinilaw (ceviche) with pomegranate & horseradish ice. Followed by a serving of black cod with Serrano ham which was inspired by a dish in one of the restaurants that Brod Romy and wife visited in the Burgundian city of Beaune, in France And for dessert, the light, tangy kalamansi (Philippine lime) soufflé tart being the perfect palate cleanser to end the meal.